Quote:
** IMPORTANT**
I am not a gunsmith but apparently I do play one on the internet.
Follow this tutorial at your own risk. Neither I nor Gunslinger forums are responsible for failure of your firearm.
I have taken as may precautions as I can to ensure that the information herein is accurate. However I am only human and prone to mistakes.
This tutorial is provided as a general overview of the internal workings of your Heritage firearm for the purpose of basic maintenance only.
It is not intended for use in diagnosing any mechanical issues.
Please direct any serious trouble with your firearm to Heritage Manufacturing, Inc. or a certified gunsmith.
I am not a gunsmith but apparently I do play one on the internet.
Follow this tutorial at your own risk. Neither I nor Gunslinger forums are responsible for failure of your firearm.
I have taken as may precautions as I can to ensure that the information herein is accurate. However I am only human and prone to mistakes.
This tutorial is provided as a general overview of the internal workings of your Heritage firearm for the purpose of basic maintenance only.
It is not intended for use in diagnosing any mechanical issues.
Please direct any serious trouble with your firearm to Heritage Manufacturing, Inc. or a certified gunsmith.
Here are the tools I used while putting this tutorial together.
A #4 flat head screwdriver and a *1/16 roll pin punch.fig.00
fig.00
*roll pin punch is optional but recommended
You may also find it useful to have a copy of the Exploded View Drawing and Parts List on hand.
Lets begin...
Here we have a standard Heritage RR .22 combo.fig.1
Lets take it apart and see what makes it tick.
fig.1
First thing to go will be the the Grips(12.1-12.4), Base Pin(11.1).fig.2 and the Cylinder(6.1-6.2).
fig.2
Next we will remove the pair of Back Strap Screws(14.1) [1&2 of 4] from under the Hammer(4.4).fig.3
fig.3
Now we move to the bottom and remove the pair of Back Strap Screws(14.1) [3&4 of 4] by the Trigger(3.1) first.
Leave the indicated Back Strap-Front Screw(14.2) for last.fig.4
When removing the Back Strap-Front Screw(14.2) be sure and keep a nice grip on the frame.fig.23
There is some (not much but some) tension from the Hammer Spring(4.6) in the handle.
We don't want to risk it popping apart on you.
fig.4
So far so good, be sure and take the Back Strap-Regular(14.3) [part# 14.4 if you have Bird Head Grips] away slowly so that the Loading Gate Spring(9.2) does not fly away on you.fig.5
fig.5
Remove the Loading Gate Spring(9.2)and turn the upper frame frame over, the Loading Gate Detent(9.3) should fall out. [shake if needed]
Now you can remove the Loading Gate(9.1) itself.
With the Loading Gate(9.1) out of the way we are now ready to begin disassembly of the Hammer(4.4) and Trigger(3.1).
fig.6
The Hammer(4.4)is quite simple to remove.
Simply remove the Hammer Screw(4.5)fig.6 and slowly draw the Hammer(4.4)back as if cocking it.
It will drop backwards nearly 180 degrees at which point it will release from the set pin it rides on and come free.
fig.7
The Trigger(3.1) itself if a bit more involved but not much.
Begin by loosening but not removing the Trigger Screw(3.2).fig.7
At this point I inserted a 1/16 roll pin punch from the opposite side to help control part extraction.fig.8
May not be needed but I like to play it safe.
fig.8
Slowly work the roll pin punch out until the Trigger(3.1) comes free.
Continue to work the roll pin punch out until the Cylinder Bolt(5.2) comes free.
Now remove the Trigger Spring Screw(3.4).
The Trigger Spring(3.3) can now be removed.fig.9
fig.9
For basic cleaning and maintenance this is as far as you should need to take your RR down.fig.10
fig.10
Lets see if we can get this bad boy back together again.
fig.11
Using the roll pin punch again align the Cylinder Bolt(5.2) and Trigger(3.1).
Now run the Trigger Screw(3.2) into place and tighten.fig.11-12
fig.12
Place the Hammer(4.4) on the set pin and rotate it back into position.
Make sure that the Trigger(3.1) is in the "fired" position to facilitate proper alignment.fig.13-14
fig.13
fig.14
Replace the Hammer Screw(4.5) and tighten.fig.15
fig.15
Now place the Loading Gate(9.1) back into position and turn the frame over to access the bottom.fig.16-17
fig.16
fig.17
Place the Loading Gate Detent(9.3), thin post up, into the hole next to the Trigger(3.1) followed by the Loading Gate Spring(9.2).fig.18-20
fig.18
fig.19
fig.20
STOP!!!
fig.21
Before we continue we need to check a very important detail.
You will notice that in fig.18-20 my Trigger Spring(3.3) is installed.
Can you spot what is wrong?
The Trigger Spring(3.3) is under the Trigger(3.1). This will not do.
You MUST make sure the Trigger Spring(3.3) is positioned on top of the flat catch of the Trigger(3.1).fig.22
If it is not, the Hammer(4.4) will not ratchet and the trigger will have little to no resistance. VERY BAD!!!
Now insert the Trigger Spring Screw(3.4) and tighten.
fig.22
Now squeeze that puppy together making sure that the Hammer Spring(4.6) in the Back Strap-Regular(14.3) [part# 14.4 if you have Bird Head Grips] catches the Hammer(4.4).fig.23
fig.23
Time to button it back up.
The screw pattern is the exact opposite of disassembly.
Begin with the Back Strap-Front Screw(14.2) then the Back Strap Screws(14.1) [3&4 of 4] by the Trigger(3.1)fig.4 and finish up with the Back Strap Screws(14.1) [1&2 of 4] under the Hammer(4.4).fig.3
Now replace the Grips(12.1-12.4) as well as the Cylinder(6.1-6.2) along with the Base Pin(11.1)fig.24
fig.24
Done.
That's all there is to it.
Now get those RR's cleaned up and keep them that way.
